While you are never far from a cup of coffee (every bar and restaurant has an espresso machine) or fresh pastry (sold by bakeries, and the street kiosks dotted around the city), a cooked breakfast – in the British or American sense – can be harder to find in Bratislava. This is partly because breakfast does not feature prominently in Slovak cuisine, with bread and cold cuts of ham and cheese, plus coffee, being the morning norm.
Of the breakfast dishes that do appear on Slovak menus, two are common: ham and eggs – also written phonetically, as hemendex – is self-explanatory; and praženica, which is basically scrambled eggs seasoned with whatever else is to hand, such as onions, peppers or salami.
To try these, and other breakfast offerings, I visited a few places that cater for the early-rising gourmand:
Cafe Vienna, on Námestie SNP (almost next door to McDonald's, which also serves breakfast), has a summer terrace overlooking the square. My breakfast, at €4.30 for freshly cooked bacon and egg, plus tea/coffee, rolls and jam, was excellent value. The serving of bacon was fairly generous and, though not crispy, was the best I had. The espresso coffee here is also pretty good.
Cafe Verne, on the Korzo promenade in Hviezdoslavovo námestie, prides itself on catering to Bratislava's arts crowd. It serves a generous ham and eggs (€2.80); just don't be deterred by the somewhat offhand service that seems to be a tradition here.
My two attempts to get breakfast at Le Bar, at the Eurovea complex, failed (once for being 'too late', at 11am on a Saturday morning; another time because it was booked out for a corporate event). A pity, because its position overlooking the Danube is great.
Cafe Roland, in a plum site in the old town's Main Square, is popular with tourists. Its English menu advertises 'Scrambled eggs and bacon' (€3.20) but what I got was actually a serving of praženica made with bits of sausage. Still, the view of the square went some way to compensate. Note that service (at 8%) is automatically added to the bill here.
Of course, many other places offer breakfast dishes; if you have a favourite, why not post it on Bratislava's Facebook page? Dobrú chuť!
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